Thursday, July 15, 2010

Advance 5985 - Construction Details

When I found time to work on this project, it went together very easily.   Several times in the construction the instructions say to cut out a facing piece or bias strips of a certain length. In modern patterns, these pieces would be included so you wouldn't have to be scrounging around through the scraps for a large enough piece. This is why reading through the instructions before you cut and sew is important!

So the side zip was something I hadn't done before, that I can remember. You first make the facing piece by making a narrow hem on a piece of fabric (I'm too lazy to look up the actual dimensions). This facing is then stitched to the trousers right sides together in a narrow V. The V is then slit and the facing is turned to the inside. The finished edges are stitched close to the teeth of the "slide fastener." The rest of the facing is tacked into place. It is not a pretty finish, but I don't think anyone will ever see this but me.
The waist area of the trousers ended up being too large. I was over-generous with my additions and cut off part of  the center back that and added a second pleat to the back to take up the excess. With the waistband, however, I had the opposite problem. It was too small. I cut it to fit my exact waist measurement and did not allow for any wearing ease. Ugh! I cut it out again adding 2 more inches. The instructions say to make the waistband (folding in half, right sides together, trim and turn) and then attach it to the trousers. I, instead, used a more modern method (pressing unnotched edge 1/2", stitching notched edges to trousers, then folding in half length-wise, stitching ends together, turning and stitching in the ditch to catch the folded edge in the stitching). I'm not sure if my method was any easier than the original. Probably not, but it is the method I am more used to. Though I'm not used to such high waisted pants, The waist fits comfortably. There is a bit of a gape in the back. I used a vintage button from my stash to finish them off.

For the bodice, I followed the instructions as best as I could. I did overcast the exposed shoulder, center front and back and side seams to prevent raveling. My side vent "facings" did not line up nearly as well as they should have, but with some handstitching they are acceptable. The whole time, however, I was thinking that their had to be a better way. I also tacked the sleeve facings in place to keep them folded over. The instructions do not say what size of button to use. I bought some half inch shank style buttons. They are a bit small. I can always replace them with 5/8" or 3/4" if I find that they do not stay fastened well.

Next up, the big reveal and final thoughts....

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